Bob on Shallow Grave 5.8

Bob leading Shallow Grave (5.8) last Sunday.  It is calling for rain on the weekend but hopefully that will change.  I want to get out to Manuel's again.  I have a route I want to bolt (Sick Like Dog).

Pretty Thin

We had a bit of a crew out this morning: Bob, Tak, Marcie, Alex, Hakase and myself. We went to to Justin's Face and set up 4 TR's. I found the bolts over the 'dyno' route were quite a bit to the right. I wasn't comfortable TRing it for fear of a pendulum swing. I don't know if those were the intended bolts for the top of that route.
The next route had really thin feet off the ground with a really cool lay back up to crimps. The crux was just getting off the ground. Marcie and Alex really liked it and spent a fair bit of time trying to work thru the sequence.
The 3rd one followed a thin crack line up to a shallow corner with a good foot ledge. The crux was moving off this ledge up onto some thin crimps with poor feet. It then goes a bit over hanging with some nice holds to keep it all together.
The 4th is not an established route, but it should be/will be. At the start of the 3rd route, a second crack leans off to the right. It provides good hands but with very thin feet. You can then gain the ledge which is actually the extreme left of the access switch-back. From here either a hand jam or an under cling lead to a sidepull high up on the prow. Reposition the feet to get a lovely pinch/jug and then the top. We used the right most bolt and two pieces of gear to create the anchor.
All the routes were good, but my fingertips are sore. You need good edging shoes as many of the foot holds are small.

Justin at International Wall

Justin had just shown us around International Wall when I took this picture.

Justin is a home grown Newfoundlander, a townie at that.  He had dabbled in climbing prior to him and his girlfriend moving out to Calgary.  While in Calgary he took to climbing seriously.  In Alberta, Justin was redpointing mid 5.11 and was starting to knock on the door of 5.12.  He also began to look into developing.  Life changed and Justin and the better half moved back to Newfoundland.  That's when the sandbag hit Justin.  Drop the grades by a couple, but he is still a solid 5.11 climber.  

Justin brings back a great set of skills.  He is a developer with his own gear (that makes 3 now),  he has a serious enthusiasm for putting up routes (he has put up at least 12-15 routes in the last year), has a great back ground of climbing in the mountains on various terrain and to boot, he is a good shit.

Tuesday June 30

The weather looks good for tomorrow morning. Bob and I were talking about going out to Justin's Face to check out his new lines. Sounds like Matt and Trevor were out on Sat and really enjoyed it.

Justin Sends Cremation 5.11?

We went out to Cemetery Face and I found out that Justin had not sent one of the routes, Cremation.  The crux is at the top with an over hanging bulge.  I had TR'd it a few times in the past and was never able to get it.  Justin managed to latch a couple of key holds for the send.  He is not quite sure of the grade but it is likely lower end 5.11 (a or b).  Justin confirms that the grades are stiff when compared to the west (1/2 number grade or so).

Finally met Justin

I managed to get out climbing this evening.  I called Justin and he was up for showing me the work he has been doing by International Wall.  He is working on a face that is adjacent to the International Wall it is about as high and as long.  He has about 4 or 5 routes along this wall in the mid 5.10 range.  It looks pretty fun but we never jumped on.

The routes he has bolted by International Face should be checked out.  There is a very prominent roof/nose like feature that looks like a lot of fun, but also tough, probably an 5.11.  

Justin definitely has the right attitude for developing and I can't wait to start working with him out in Manuels.  

Weather is looking bad.

The weather is looking pretty sh!tty for the weekend.  Calling for showers today thru sunday.  If it turns out to be that bad, maybe we could do a little route setting in the garage Sunday night?