Manuels Updated Topo

We managed to get a few routes up on the German Face this summer. Probably room for one or two more. As it stands now, we have 5 routes with about 55 bolts over all 5 (I guess I will need to buy some more).

From left to right:

German Engineered (Blue) 5.8

Tach Auch (Green) 5.9

Photophobia (Yellow) 5.10b

Hat' Shit (Red) 5.9+

Sick Like Dog (purple) 5.7

Photophobia 5.10b (?c).

Bob and I got out to Manuels this morning. Instead of placing 3 bolts to start the route, it starts on the first 2 bolts of Tach Auch. I had to place one more to bridge the gap to Photophobia. Getting to the 4th bolts is quite easy but it is at the beginning of a fairly blank face. Another 3 bolts get you thru the crux section. The upper third is more like 5.9 so I spaced the bolts a bit more to keep the challenge up. It is the stiffest route I have put up this year.

Bob began spying and cleaning a new line beside German Engineered. It is nice and consistent climbing. Bob will bolt it the next time out. We figure it will go around 5.8.

I am soon to do up a route guide for the area but that is probably useless until next year.

Today was the first time I had been to German Face in about a month. I was very happy to see that the path is getting worked in. I guess people are getting out there to climb. Awesome.

Big Step

Climbing last year in the Gunks was great. I did a lot training to get ready for that trip. Unfortunately I trained the wrong thing. I was lapping mid 5.10's and flashing the odd 5.11. The entire time in the Gunks I don't think I did a climb over a 5.8. The mental muscle is what I needed to train.

This is a picture of leading the second pitch of Betty, a Gunks classic. This step was over a void of 150 feet. Lots of stemming and little roofs. Coming up under the roofs was intense. After 2 pitches I was at the top. My first multi-pitch lead. I was scared and stoked at the same time. What made it so hard for me was the mental game. It was only a 5.3.

Leading on trad, unfamiliar rock, never having lead above 50 feet, the uncanny exposure...all these things made it intense. My only regret is that I never pushed my physical limits. I think it would be nice to dial down the mental intensity and push the physical limits for the next trip. Get into some single pitch sport climbing. It is a nice goal for a winter of climbing indoors.

Is everyone back?

It has been a bit of a dry spell. I was off on vacation for two weeks and when I get back Bob and Kim are off and Jan is in Germany. All my regular partners have been away. I still have a route to finish bolting and a couple of other projects that I would like to have bolted before winter. The kids will be back to school soon and before you know it snow, again!

Last year Leo and I went to the Gunks at the end of Sept. and had a great time climbing. It seems that I am strongest at the beginning of the season. I am thinking of maybe doing a spring road trip. Go somewhere with a lot of good sport routes so we can push some limits. Food for thought.

I have been asked when I am going to put off the next Viagra Classic. Maybe in the fall.

Climbing Before Bill

Hurricane Bill is coming our way. I thought he might rain us out for Sunday but the forecast is good. Myself and Tim will be going out to Manuels (yet to confirm with Tim). When I get back I have to Hurricane Proof the house and cabin. Should be fun.

OR Humor

Sometimes the guys in the or have too much time on their hands.

iPod Found

Tim and I were climbing down at Cemetery Face this morning before it began raining. We managed to get in 3 routes before the rain started. While we were cleaning up, Tim happened to see this iPod in the trees. It is an older model and white in color. I think it is toast because of the condensation on the inside of the screen.