Monday, August 17, 2009

News From Jan


Jan has been living in Newfoundland now over 2 years. He returned to Germany at the beginning of August to tie up a few loose ends before returning. This picture is from some hiking Jan was doing last week. This is the type of surrounding that Jan learned to climb in. He was told me about numerous multi-pitch sport climbs in the 5.6 to 5.8 range. These climbs were up to 10 pitches long (1000+ feet). That would be a nice afternoon jaunt.

He also went to a new climbing gym in Gliching with is just west of Munich. The wall are 40 feet with synthetic rock panels and modular holds. It looks like the work of Enter Prise Systems (or something similar). I guess it is time for a bit of a renovation, hey Leo???

Wetness Overnight


The forecast isn't so hot. 60% showers overnight and rain starting in the morning. Unless something really changes, tomorrow morning will be rained out.

A picture of Bob, Jan and Kim. Jan is helping Kim with her belay device and NOTHING else!

Sunday, August 16, 2009

Vacation Over

I am back. I spent a week out at the cabin and a week in Corner Brook. Hardly any exercise and a whole lot of junk food. In a weird way it felt pretty good but it is time to get my shit together. I am hoping that Leo will start his climbing sessions in the fall. If not I will be getting on a training schedule regardless. Long range?... possibly a trip in the fall.

Tuesday, August 11, 2009

Days Off

Every now and again I think it is worth while taking a bit of time off climbing. It allows you to re-focus and heal up some long standing but minor injuries. I am in the middle of taking 2 weeks off climbing. I can't say that I have gone into withdrawl or anything but I find myself staring at various faces wondering what they would be like to climb.
Mentally I have been a little exhausted lately. I love climbing and training for climbing but sometimes it gets to be a bit too much. Instead of the unbrideled excitement of going climbing it has been a bit more of a chore. Lugging the equipment in and out. Burning hard earned 'browny points' to get out when I don't usually. It can be a real balancing act. Taking a few days off can make it feel new again.

Friday, August 7, 2009

Happy Birthday

Happy Birthday to ME!!!!
Today I am 41 years old and trying to act like I am 21 years old. My kids thinks I am silly...but what would they know.

Thursday, August 6, 2009

Another New Face???

Was just talking to Andrew L. about some stuff unrelated to climbing. He was out in the middle of the woods at some over hung face that he just found. He was on his way to the German Face and got off trail and came to this hidden overhung face that is further on that the German Face. They set up a TR and figured they were on something around a 5.11. He promises to get me a couple of pictures.

Saturday, August 1, 2009

Photophobia

We were out climbing this morning with Trevor filming us. He filmed Kim climbing German Engineered and me climbing Tach Auch. After that he was filming Bob cleaning a face and myself bolting a new line. I have mixed feelings about the new line. It is inconsistent. It starts of quite easy at 5.8ish. Then the middle third gets onto a thin face with shitty feet and crimps. It is probably about a hard 5.10. Then the top gets easy again. I was thinking about trying to get a roof move at the end but the fall was too dangerous. I didn't finish bolting it today, it still needs 3 bolts at the bottom. When done I will likely call it Photophobia.