Sandstone Crack-climbing

A crack is an obvious challenge. Challenge which needs lot of courage, sweat and pain. You can make it by a solid hand-jam, clenched fists, powerful off-width technique or made-of-steel fingers. Don't forget strong legs, those are very important.

For someone even one move in a crack can be equal to a bloody hell, for others it can be a paradise with naughty angels playing sweet melodies on the strung tapes.

Crimson Knuckles (VIIIc), Prachov Rocks, Czech Paradise, Czech Republic

Sandstone crack climbing paradise or hell is with no doubt Adr. Smoothly stark towers crossed by non-compromising lines of cracks look like relentless thugs. Guys who icily look you up and down keeping a stiff upper lip. But if you are too cheeky they jump at you and start beating you with their rough fists. Victims of this brutal attack – in the better case – come out of it with bleeding hands, arms, legs and time to time head. In the worse case they have to see a doctor. But every time when you manage to win you have a feeling of the merry joy in your soul. The joy of forests, wind, clouds on the sky, sand at the bottom of the rock, tired friend's hand-shake, women's curve and mostly the joy of the foamy pint of the goodness which is probably impossible to tire of.

But a path to this cheerful victory is not easy. It takes a lot of suffering, pain, blood and full commitment. Time to time it's needed to admit a loss and back out with strong language, because mangled up show-off can hardly pick up enough courage for the next try.

But after a time of discovering the right fight tactics, tricks and cunning twists the mystery of those grinning lines starts to be clear. Rough mill-wheels of the earlier infernal cracks starts more look like honey lips of gorgeous young ladies who are available only to the insistent fighters. But be careful – time to time those ladies like to suck a fresh blood of obtrusive tough guys.

Crack climbing wisdom doesn't fall from the sky onto just anybody, but theoretic crack climber falls offten. That's why in those magical rock features you need to shake, sweat, rub, swear, snort, get tired, fight as a tiger or roar as a lion.

I think that those who got discourage by the first scratch or burning pain have to feel they have deprived themselves of the large part of the climbing heaven, which is as crossed by cracks as pumped hands are by swelled veins.

It's never too late. You just need to get some courage, cope with the sight of your own blood and slowly start to dip your hands, arms and legs into the magical darkness of the crack verticals, diagonals and horizontals.

Training and Preperation Trip

 Mayan and I have been down here for two weeks of acclimatization to carrying heavy packs and twelve hour days of climbing and bolting. The first week of the year and Fiordland was blessed with seven days of perfect blue skies for melting snow and climbing at the crags. We climbed every day.
We climbed at Babylon and two days at the Mates Little Brother where we attempted JC’s and my project from last year; a striking and intimidating multi-pitch route straight up the middle of the wall. This will be by far the hardest alpine rock climb in New Zealand. The first pitch a delicate 21 slab which leads to a 30m 28 with a feisty crux and wild moves though two overlaps. The next pitch was going to be a short 24 – and it was except for the last 4m of desperate slab climbing which had me falling two moves shy of anything that resembles a hold. We will be back.

Picture: Mayan sending ‘White Admiral’

Babylon, the best crag in the country, has had a new surge of development from the usual suspects – Bruce and Jon sending the massive climb ‘Piro Piro’, a 25 then a amazing 35m 27. Mayan finished a tricky project ‘White Admiral’ 29. We both added a third pitch to ‘Natures Melody’ to create a great steep 27. I was sent in to send Thomas’s project ‘Whirling Dervish’, a bouldery 29. We bolted two routes on the steep head wall above the cave which give 15m of sheer 20-30 degree overhung climbing. The left route is a power endurance 30 with big shouldery moves. The right route has bouldery sections and has yet to be completed

New Crag

 At have fun in the sun we are always looking for new rock and im pleased to say we have found a new venue thats fantastic for the people to get there first taste of what climbing is all about.

The new crag is mainly top roping,which is the best way to begin climbing,the routes are all low grades 4,5 and some 6 and they are a lot of fun.
Now we have bolted routes that make this crag
a fab place to bolt for the first time and its a great day out for every one.

CERRO DEL HIERRO

The walk in to a great place Each sector conected by tunels

Just over the boarder in spain there is a fab quary with limitless pinacles,all bolted.The sectors are all joined togeather by tunels which where used to take the iron ore out of the quary.Climbing here is good all year as you can find plenty of shade in the summer time.

Loosing Battle

I thought my finger was healing pretty well. I was wrong. Today the skin from the top of my finger pealed back. Candace almost puked. There is healthy scare tissue underneath but it is a little shorter. Hell...I am deformed!!!!!

Tips

It doesn't look like much but I would like to keep it.

Climbing Season Over?

I had an unfortunate accident. While pruning my trees I almost pruned the top of my left index finger off. I cut about 2/3's the way through my finger about 1/2cm from the tip. There is a chance i could loose the tip if it doesn't heal well. I guess that means I shouldn't ground it into the dirt for awhile. My outdoor season usually wraps up in Sept. I guess I won't buy that next batch of bolts. Sorry.